To account for brewhouse efficiency, you do calculations based on equipment and process. The mash efficiency above is still included in this efficiency as well. Most of these variables will not change based on your sparging method. The only change is the mash efficiency.
There are two ways to calculate how much sparge water to add and what your batch size should be. You can do the work by hand, subbing in any specific values you may have for your own brewhouse efficiency. Or you can use one of many online calculators. Online calculators use an estimate to determine some values. These can include how much water the grain will absorb and how much will evaporate in the boil.
The most efficient way of batch sparging is to sparge with an equal amount of water that you mashed with. You then subtract the amount that the grain Alls. All the batches should add up to the amount of water in the first runoff, or your original wort. In other words, the sparge water plus the first runoff should sum up to your pre-boil volume. The formula above assumes two batches. This is generally recommended as a good balance between efficiency and effort. If you chose to do less or more, the rule of thumb remains: all batches combined should equal the volume of the runoff.
This can get complicated when you include aspects such as grain absorption. For example, say you 4 gallons of water to the mash and the grain absorbs 1. The amount of wort and sparge water will be 2. Of course, today we can use our phones or computers for any task.
This includes calculating our sparge water. This is the method we use, with estimated values for the constants such as water absorption. These calculators have the ability to change the estimated constants as needed. BeerSmith does everything for a brew, including calculating your sparge steps for you. It includes estimated values for constants, and you can change them if necessary.
Every field includes an explanation of what the labels mean and how you might change them. The goal of sparging is to rinse the grains to transfer any sugar that may remain into your wort. There are two ways to do this: fly sparging or batch sparging.
Fly sparging involves a constant flow of water into the mash tun. The grain bed only has to be set once. Batch sparging, in comparison, only requires a mash tun with a false bottom and ball valve. Once the mash is complete, batch sparging consists of a few easy-to-remember steps. The best prevention for a stuck sparge comes before the sparge begins. There are two main reasons that a sparge becomes stuck.
Preventing a stuck sparge starts with the grind of your grain. My first batch sparging experience was with grain that was ground twice as fine as normal. This is often recommended for brew in a bag setups and I had recently switched over. The result was a sticky, gluey mess and an almost unfixable stuck sparge.
You need to pay close attention to the flow rate when you fly sparge. Keep a constant eye on the amount of wort being collected and adjust your flow rate if you are collecting too quickly or too slowly. Often during all grain brewing brewers will continuously monitor the runoff gravity using a hydrometer or refractometer and cut off the sparge when it has reached 1. Batch sparging is the same idea as fly sparging, but you do not need a sparge arm. With batch sparging, you completely drain the mash tun of liquid.
Then you add more water to the mash tun and stir. We recommend replacing the lid and waiting 30 minutes before you drain the newly added water. After the 30 minutes, you drain the wort, and begin the boil process. Batch sparging allows you to save time because you can open the spigots all the way.
You do not have to monitor the flow rate as it does not matter. The mashout reduces wort viscosity to improve run-off, but also denatures the enzymes and prevents further conversion from taking place while fly sparging is proceeding. Batch sparging is similar to partigyle brewing. In partigyle brewing, progressively weaker worts are run off from the lauter tun and each wort is made into a different beer. With batch sparging, the runoffs usually the first two are combined into a single batch.
After conversion, the sweet wort is recirculated as normal and the mashtun is completely drained as quickly as possible. This usually takes about 3—5 minutes. Next, an addition of sparge water is added. This water is stirred into the mash, allowed to rest for a few minutes, thoroughly stirred again and — after recirculation — is once more drained as quickly as the system will allow.
The second batch usually takes about 3—5 minutes to collect. There are several advantages to batch sparging. A mashout is seldom necessary although it may be desirable when batch sparging because the wort will be in the kettle more quickly and enzymes denatured by boiling.
Batch sparging takes more time than no-sparge brewing, but less time than fly sparging. It is relatively simple to figure out how much water to add for each batch. Most of the following is drawn from and builds on the work of Ken Schwartz and Bob Regent. The main concept to understand is that, for the best efficiency, the runoff volumes from your mash and batch sparge should be equal.
To figure out the amount for your system, both of the following relationships must be satisfied:. In the equations, R1 is the initial runoff volume. This equals the mash water volume minus the water absorbed by grain. In my brewery, with my mill, this is 0. Your value may be different. Assume a recipe with 10 lb. A mash ratio of 1. Based on an absorption of 0. Since we want to collect 3.
Stir the additional water in, let it sit for a few minutes, then vorlauf recirculate the wort through the grain bed until clear and start your runoff. After the runoff, we add 3. Stir it in, rest 10—15 minutes, stir again, then vorlauf and runoff as before.
These two runoffs will give our pre-boil volume of 7 gallons 26 L of sweet wort. I prefer the rectangular ones. Remove the spigot from the cooler. Unscrew that and the spigot should pop right out. Remove the plastic insert from the hole in the minikeg bung and insert the bung into the spigot hole from the inside of the cooler.
The beveled edge of the bung goes in first and the flange of the bung should end up flush with the cooler wall. Cut off a 6-inch piece of the vinyl tubing and, from the inside of the cooler, insert it into the hole in the minikeg bung.
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